| Howto Install AMSS/TRIAL/DC Header |
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| Written by Russ | |
| Monday, 19 July 2004 | |
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installing a header on the 2zzge celica
Here's the install guide for the AMSS header... do this at your own
risk... It is preferred that you have a professional install this for you, as it is a bit complex, and you have to drop the engine cradle. I take no responsibility in damage to your car, parts, and/or yourself. Tools Needed:
smart... don't work under your car w/the risk of it falling on you. Once the car is up, pull off your engine plastics. I'm not gonna get into how, because if you can't do that, you shouldn't be installing this header. Step2 - Remove manifold bracket Now it's time for the fun stuff... let's start taking crap apart! remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut holding the stock manifold bracket... make sure it doesn't fall on you, it's heavy enough to at least chip a tooth. 
Step3 - Undoing the flange that connects to the cat Undo the flange that connects the stock manifold to the catalytic converter pipe, they're the 2 circled bolts... it's just like unbolting your exhaust ;) 
Step4 - pulling the heatshields off *note* you may need to remove your front strut bar to get tools back behind the engine... do this w/the car on the ground. Let's start by unbolting the bottom heatshield. You'll either be using the wrench here, or a ratchet depending on the bolt... they're in places that are pretty tight and can only be gotten off w/a wrench for a few of em. Pull off these bolts... the heatshield should be loose once that's done (bottom one) 
(top one) 
note: there are 4 on the bottom heatshield, 5 on the top heatshield Step5 - Pull that badboy off the engine Now it's time to unbolt the stock manifold from the engine. There's 2 nuts and 1 bolt above the pipes, 2 bolts underneath... Some of them are tricky to get to, so you may need to use some short socket extensions, and/or flex joints for your ratchet. (view from the bottom) 
Step6 - Getting it all out of your engine compartment NOTE- you can remove the downpipe to bypass removing the engine cradle This is the alltime mother of a bitchwhore step in the whole install. It's been said that it can come out the bottom just as it is now, but I spent about 4 hours flipping, and turning, etc etc everything to try and get it out... well... it didn't happen, so I had to remove the engine cradle (or at least clear up another inch or so in the opening) what I did: (warning - you should support the engine/engine cradle w/some jacks to make sure neither falls on you) (bolts are circled in the picture) remove all bolts/nuts from front->back crossmember (including front engine mount loosen the bolts on the driver side of the cradle remove the bolts from the passenger side undo the bolts for the rear engine mount now, w/all of this loos, you can pull the engine cradle towards the back of the car, and you should have enough room to pull out the stuff. 
make sure to retorque these to manufacturer specs later on. Step7 - wow... that's the difference here, you drink a beer, look at the two manifolds side by side, chill for a minute, etc... 
Step8 - Putting stuff back in Now, you gotta put everything back together. You must pull off the O ring from the stock manifold and put it on the new header so you can get a good seal. Also, you need to put the stock gasket on the bolts sticking from the engine where the manifold bolts to. Put the new header in, line it up w/the holes, and tighten it up. On the engine side, it's the 3 bolts and 2 nuts, on the exhaust side, use the springed bolts, but you will need new nuts for it since they bolt directly into the stock manifold. Once all this is done, and tightened well, start putting the engine cradle and the stuff that you removed on step 6. You will not be putting the heatshields nor the manifold bracket back in. Thathatha that's all folks! Now that it's done, reset the ecu, start up the car, and cross your fingers.... you should be good to go.. hopefully, without any leaks. I thought I had an exhaust leak, but it was just the sound of the inside of the engine coming through the new header since it's stainless steel, not cast iron. Here's what it looks like installed. 
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| Last Updated ( Monday, 19 July 2004 ) |
